Tomato Daily

Tomato Red Alert

2012-01-16T12:38:00.000Z

Finding tomato varieties that grow well in your area is very important for success. With so many from which to choose, when you find one that does very well, it's worth growing every season and for me, it's Red Alert.

The earliness and taste of this variety are second to none - at least in my garden - and I would recommend it to everyone to try.

As a cherry and bush variety it is easy to move under cover in the spring if temperatures become too cold or weather too wet.

It's only downside is that it can become a bit "leggy" and needs plenty of light. It performs best in a large container rather than a hanging basket and as a general rule, will produce an excellent harvest in a large pot or container. Grow bags are OK too, but it's best to keep the low growing branches off the ground.

Happy New Year

2012-01-01T19:10:00.000Z

Happy New Year and a successful tomato growing season!

Santa brought me a large electric propagator and an LED grow light to replace my old set-up, so I have the chance now to sow tomato seeds even earlier than usual.

One of the problems with sowing early is that plants can become too leggy - especially if there is not enough light. Therefore, keeping seedlings at a mild temperature requires some artificial lighting in the form of a grow lamp/light.

Getting the combination of light, heat and moisture correct can be tricky because too much heat and moisture and they'll shoot up like rockets ... a temperature that is too cold will slow or even check growth and plants may not recover.

Keeping a minimum of moisture in the soil (under-watering) is my approach when conditions are cold. When temperatures are warm and light levels are high, tomato plants are happy with plenty of moisture, especially when they are fruiting.

The Challenges Of This Season

2011-10-04T22:05:00.000+01:00

One of the main challenges for me this season has been tomato flowers slow to pollinate. This was partly because of a lack of flying insects in the early summer. Also, when you have sunny days, you also have cooler nights in the early summer, and a wide fluctuation between day and night temperatures, which can cause a delay in flowers setting fruit.

The other problem I had was fruit splitting on my outdoor plants. Black Cherry and Sungold were badly affected with just one downpour of rain!

I will change these varieties next season to Chocolate Cherry and Golden Cherry F1 which are supposed to be less prone to splitting or cracking. Another two varieties to add to my list!

Fried Green Tomato Recipe

2011-10-03T10:46:00.003+01:00

Fried green tomatoes are popular in the Southern United States and made from green tomatoes (unripe tomatoes that is - some varieties are green when they're ripe!) and coated with cornmeal and fried.

In the UK cornmeal is available in health food shops and is sometimes found in the supermarket called maize meal or polenta.

Traditional preparation of fried green tomatoes begins by cutting the tomatoes into approximately 1/4-inch slices. They are then seasoned with salt and pepper, coated with plain, coarse cornmeal, and shallow fried in bacon fat for a few minutes each side, or until golden brown.

Shallow frying is preferred, as the tomatoes do not float in the oil, which allows the weight of the tomato to press the cornmeal to the underside of the tomato.

Alternatives include using breadcrumbs or flour instead of cornmeal, and frying in vegetable oil or other fat.

The sliced tomatoes may be dipped in a beaten egg before the cornmeal is added which helps the cornmeal stay in place during the cooking process.

Information from wikipedia.org.

Indian Summer Tomatoes

2011-10-02T09:51:00.000+01:00

For those of us who are lucky enough to be experiencing the sunny weather, it's given the tomato plants an extended season. There are new shoots sprouting from a number of the tomato plants around the garden and the cuttings that were taken in July/August have also started producing ripe tomatoes!

It's not unusual to have a spell of good weather in the Autumn, but the past few days have been particularly warm and tomato plants growing in container need watering once or even twice daily.

My list for 2012 includes Golden Cherry F1, Chocolate Cherry, Red Alert, Tumbling Tom (red and yellow) and Oregon Spring.

There are literally hundreds of varieties from which to choose and the seed brochure says good things about all of them - how do we make a decision?

My plan is to grow varieties that I know will produce a good harvest in my area, plus two or three new ones - split resistant, blight tolerant and disease resistant to start with! That should offer the best chance of success.

Heirloom Tomato Seeds

2011-10-01T12:41:00.000+01:00

If you are thinking about growing heirloom varieties next season, you can do no better than get hold of the Plants of Distinction "Simply Vegetables" seed brochure 2012. They also have a website with a very good online selection: http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk/acatalog/A-Z_of_Vegetables_TOMATO.html

I would suggest that if you are new to growing tomatoes that you include a cherry variety in your selection as these are usually the easiest and most likely to produce a successful harvest.

Large varieties usually produce a limited yield and take longer to grow - in a poor summer they could run out of steam before they mature and ripen. My favourite large variety is Oregon Spring which is a bush variety and will grow well outdoors in a sheltered position.

Saving Tomato Seeds

2011-09-30T07:49:00.000+01:00

There is no better time for saving tomato seeds than at the end of the season.

Save seeds from tomatoes that are fully ripe and open pollinated. Hybrid F1 varieties won't grow true to type - like the previous harvest - so it's best to choose heirlooms or older varieties that have been around some time because of their special qualities.

Here's a link to more information about saving tomato seeds. It's very easy to do and will not only save money but you will know where the seeds have come from!

Seeds that have been saved from last season will usually grow stronger plants than seeds that have been around for two or three years. Some people store them in the fridge which helps to keep them fresh.

Quadgrow Planter

2011-09-29T10:47:00.000+01:00

I recently had the opportunity to check out the Quadgrow Planter which comprises of four good size pots that sit on a reservoir of water and nutrients.

One of the problems with traditional pots and grow bags is that they dry out so quickly in warm weather.
Dry soil can create all sorts of problems including nutrient deficiency, poor root development and Blossom End Rot to name but a few!

Two of the benefits of the Quadgrow planter is that tomato plants have constant access to both water and nutrients - just like professional tomato growers grow their plants.

Another major benefit is its large reservoir which enables auto watering when on holiday and it's very quick to set up.

Overall, I would recommend the Quadgrow Planter as a great piece of kit for the home tomato grower.

Last Newsletter of the Season

2011-09-28T17:13:00.000+01:00

This weekend it's the last newsletter of the season from the Tomato Growing website until February and I start writing again.

My original intention with this blog was to write daily, as the title suggests, but I didn't manage to stay up to date! However, now I have a little extra time on my hands, I intend to write a small post every day for 365 days.

Each post will be related to tomato plants and growing tomatoes in some way which will also include a bit of plant biology as well as tomato growing tips and a few things of interest that are not often covered in tomato growing blogs and websites.

Tomato Blight Treatment

2011-08-20T13:54:00.001+01:00

Tomato blight, also known sometimes as potato blight, is a fungal disease which is caused by wet, damp conditions and mainly affects tomato plants growing outdoors.

However, greenhouses that are poorly aerated can also be a cause of blight because of high humidity and condensation.

If it has been wet in your area for a prolonged period, and you are growing tomatoes outside, it is possible that your plants have, or could soon have blight.

The combination of wet leaves and high humidity over a prolonged period is almost curtain to cause tomato blight. As a fungal infection, it can easily spread from plant to plant and on fingers too, so it’s best not to touch plant leaves and run the risk of contaminating healthy plants.

It is common to have a touch of fungal infection on one or two lower leaves when growing outdoors if you live in an area that gets a lot of rain. Remove the infected leaves and leaf branches, and keep the base of plants free from decaying leaves. Good air circulation at soil level helps keep plants healthy.

Tomato Blight Treatment
However, if blight has affected a number of leaves it is time to spray with Dithane 945 or apply Bordeaux Mixture. This may stop the disease spreading, and more importantly infecting other plants, but there is no cure for blight, it is only possible to stop it getting worse.

Treatment for tomato blight may be different depending on country regulations regarding the use of chemicals for garden use, but just ask at your garden center for a systemic fungicide.

Brandywine for Taste

2011-07-30T09:46:00.002+01:00

Brandywine is considered one of the best of all tomatoes for taste. However, because it's a late maturing variety, it is best grown under cover in short season areas. As you'll see from the quote below, it is also low in yield and and ripens unevenly. But these are a small price to pay for such a great tasting tomato!

Brandywine is an heirloom tomato, which means it’s open-pollinated and not a hybrid. It’s a large, meaty, pink, late-season tomato. Gardeners excuse its low yield and uneven ripening because of its classic tomato flavor.

via gardeningchannel.com

I grew this variety outdoors and it produced about half a dozen tomatoes per plant. You'd need to have quite a few to want to give these away to the neighbours!

Tomato Fun Information

2011-07-29T20:12:00.002+01:00

One of the great tomato fests or even pilgrimages is La Tomatina tomato fight, where people throw tomatoes at each other. I expect that wearing a white t-shirt makes it all the more fun!

La Tomatina (Bũnol, Valencia, Spain), held annually on the last Wednesday in August, attracts tens of thousands of visitors. The highlight is the tomato fight, in which 30,000+ participants throw an estimated 150,000 overripe tomatoes (100 metric tons) at each other.

via tomatodirt.com

I hope they are all ripe - a few unripe tomatoes could hurt a lot!

Where To Plant Tomato Plants

2011-05-09T07:55:00.004+01:00

Tomato plants are vulnerable and sensitive things, and don't like soil that is old and possibly infected with disease and full of bugs waiting to eat as much of them as possible!

If you are an experienced allotment grower and plant tomatoes directly into the soil, you will know about soil preparation and the care needed to get a good crop from this tender and sub-tropical plant.

However, for the home gardener, tomatoes are best grown in new compost and in containers and grow bags.

If you plant them directly into the garden soil, they'll get eaten by bugs and infected with disease.

Containers, including hanging baskets and grow bags are ideal for growing tomatoes and there is no huge concern as to whether your plants will survive. Just plant them in new compost/soil and they'll be happy.

Tomato Tips - Keeping Plants Healthy

2011-05-07T10:12:00.000+01:00

Tomato plants grow at an amazing speed under the right conditions and it is keeping them happy that will ensure a successful crop.

Here are a few tips on how to manage them - especially how to avoid those conditions that are a threat to their health.

Wet leaves for prolonged periods will result in fungal disease and kill them!
Soil that is soddon through heavy rain will be air-less and the plants will struggle.
Cold temperatures combined with wet leaves will result in tomato blight.
Even when growing outdoors, try to shelter them from rain.

I guess the biggest threat to the health of tomato plants is rain. It lowers their immune system and they will be vulnerable to every disease in the garden.

Of course a drop of rain on a warm day won't do them any harm, but wet leaves overnight when temperatures drop is a problem - especially if they are stood in soaking wet soil.

Tomato Club

2011-04-14T21:39:00.000+01:00

Join the Tomato Club and get lots of tips and advice about growing tomatoes - it doesn't cost anything!

There is also a sow-a-long where you can follow the progress of five Tumbling Tom seeds that were sown on the 4th March and have just been potted into bigger pots.

There's a tomato growing newsletter which is published online every Friday with lots of advice and the opportunity to add your own tips and suggestions.

If you have a lot of tomato seeds left over this season, do a swop with someone who has too many seeds of a variety you would like.

Ask questions about growing tomatoes and get a reply within 24 hours - and that doesn't cost anything either!

Visit: Tomato Growing and get started now!

When To Sow Tomato Seeds

2011-03-14T21:06:00.001Z

Knowing the best time to sow tomato seeds in your area is one of the crucial ingredients for success when it come to growing your own tomatoes.

Sow too early and the plants suffer from conditions that are too cold with days are too short and light levels too low. Sow late and there may not be enough time for the tomatoes to mature and ripen before the autumn weather turns too cold to grow tomatoes.

For growing outside, the best time to sow is about eight to ten weeks before planting out. Decide when your last frost may be, then give it another week or two just in case.

My last frost date is around the middle of May so I aim to plant out the end of May or beginning of June.

For those with a short season, choose early varieties like Stupice, Siberian, Latah and Red Alert.

These tomato plants can cope with short summers and will do well even if the weather is poor.

More about when to sow tomato seeds can be found at this link.

Looking Back at the Season's Results

2010-11-20T13:14:00.000Z

Every season has its ups and downs - its successful results and disappointments, and this season was no exception.

I've noticed that for the past three summers (maybe four) we have had very good early summer periods of dry warm weather followed by mid to late summers of poor weather and lots of rain! We then get a few weeks of dry warm weather in the Autumn.

Another change is that the last frost date has been getting earlier each season which is good news as it extends the tomato growing season, however, although frost isn't a problem after mid May in most of the UK, damp wet weather will cause fungal diseases and lower plants resistance, making them vulnerable to other diseases and slow growth.

If there is one takeaway from all this, it is that plants that are often exposed to rain, or regular condensation in the greenhouse, won't do well.

My results this season were the best I've ever had from the early maturing varieties - especially the cherry tomato varieties, but the larger tomato plants that take longer to produce mature fruit, suffered from the poor summer.

The fruit of the larger varieties was particularly late to mature and I had many gardeners send me emails asking why their tomatoes had not turned red and how they might get them to mature more quickly.

It is warmth that encourages tomatoes to mature, so cool temperatures in late summer prevented fruit growing outdoors from ripening - or at least slowed the process down.

Best Tomato Varieties - Early to Mature

2010-10-28T08:45:00.001+01:00

With hundreds of varieties from which to choose, the best varieties are those that will grow well in your area. It is no good choosing the variety with the best taste if you can't get it to ripen before the end of the growing season in your area.

Furthermore, those tomatoes that are packed full of taste often require a good amount of sun, something that is a bit hit-and-miss, especially if you live in a short season area.

However, there is one constant in tomato growing and that is that usually, cherry varieties will grow more quickly and mature earlier than larger varieties.

It is for these reasons that I always grow cherry varieties each season and if you choose a cherry variety that is not too small, Maskotka for example, you'll have a tomato that can be used as a cherry and medium size, and be eating your own tomatoes at the earliest possible time of the season.

Tomato Problems

2010-07-22T20:30:00.000+01:00

At this time of the season there are just two or three tomato growing problems that most gardener's are affected by:

Blossom End Rot
Blossom Drop

Blossom End Rot "BER" shows itself as a brown/black patch on the blossom end (underside) of the fruit.
This is caused by a calcium deficiency and the tomato is unable to complete it's growing process.
The best and quickest way to avoid this problem is to foliar spray with Chempak Calcium.

Blossom Drop happens when the flowers that have failed to pollinate are aborted by the plant.
In order to aid pollination, spray/mist flowers with water and tap plants gently

Other problems are usually about leaves but it is quite normal to have a few poorly looking leaves at the bottom of a plant because nutrients are sent to the growing tip - that's where all the action is - and the lowest part of the plant gets ignored.

Tomatoes are not "Easy to Grow".

2010-05-26T22:17:00.000+01:00

I would love to be able to say (like some who write on the subject of tomato growing) that "tomatoes are easy to grow".

If this were true, why do I receive so many emails of "help" from people who have been growing tomatoes for years?

The truth is, growing tomatoes can be easy to grow if ...

We have an ideal summer for tomato growing ... or,

The person growing the tomatoes has had years of experience and grows tomatoes in a greenhouse.

You can see that this limits the idea of "easy" to a limited few.

Of course, if you are a professional tomato grower you will know that science plays a big role in success. This success being the outcome of the controlled climate of a greenhouse.

However, what about the home gardener who is spending the little spare time he or she has, casting their seeds upon the flimsy soil and advice of the "tomatoes are easy to grow" personalities who do a good job of promoting vegetable gardening in general, but a poor job of really helping people solve the many difficulties that may arise when growing tomatoes in a short season summer, such as the UK.

Are tomatoes easy to grow? Not in my experience!

www.tomatogrowing.co.uk

PS If you need advice about growing tomatoes, I'll do my best to answer your questions at the website above.

Tomato Story

2010-05-22T20:16:00.001+01:00

An old Italian who lived alone in New Jersey wanted to plant his annual tomato garden, but it was very difficult work, as the ground was hard.

His only son, Vincent, who used to help him, was in prison. The old man wrote a letter to his son and described his predicament:

Dear Vincent,
I am feeling pretty sad because it looks like I won't be able to plant my tomato garden this year. I'm just getting too old to be digging up a garden plot. I know if you were here my troubles would be over. I know you would be happy to dig the plot for me, like in the old days.
Love,
Papa

A few days later he received a letter from his son.

Dear Papa,
Don't dig up that garden. That's where the bodies are buried.
Love,
Vinnie

At 4 a.m. the next morning, FBI agents and local police arrived and dug up the entire area without finding any bodies. They apologized to the old man and left.

That same day the old man received another letter from his son.

Dear Papa,
Go ahead and plant the tomatoes now. That's the best I could do under the circumstances.
Love you,
Vinnie

Thanks to John F. for sending me this amusing story!

Removing Side Shoots

2010-05-17T08:44:00.001+01:00

Side shoots should be removed from tall varieties that are also called indeterminate or Cordon.

This keeps all of the new growth in the main stem from which the leaf branches and eventually the trusses grow.

Here you see two side shoots growing between the main stem and the leaf branches. You can remove these side shoots when they are about an inch or two long.

Trusses eventually grow from the main stem. They look like leaf branches to begin with, but then grow flowers on the end of the branches.

The flowers eventually fade and small pea-like tomatoes are formed.

If you are growing outside in a short season area, you would expect to grow about four trusses of tomatoes before stopping the plant by pinching out the growing tip.

For more information please visit: http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk/html/side_shoots___trusses.html

Tomato Problems

2010-05-16T12:18:00.000+01:00

Chances are, if you are having problems with your tomato plants it will probably be because they are receiving too much water at this time of the season when temperatures at night are quite low.

The combination of wet soil/compost and cold temperatures overnight, will give tomato plants a hard time.

Here are a few tips:

Water in the morning so plants can use most of the water they are sitting in before the temperature drops at night.
Don't sit tomato plants that are in pots, in a tray of water for more than 15 minutes or so, otherwise the soil will become sodden.
Roots need air as well as water, so a root ball that is constantly wet will not grow to its full potential.
Tomato plants do not like wet leaves for more than a short time ... wet leaves overnight can trigger tomato blight and other fungal disease.
Keep plants indoors or under cover at night until all danger of frost has past. In the UK that will be around the end of May.

It is normal for the lower leaves of plants to show some signs of marks and blemishes with purple under leaves, these are just the leaves that struggled through the colder temperatures of early spring.

New growth should show a good leaf colour and eventually the lower leaves can be removed. Most of the plants energy goes into the new growth and the old leaves get left behind - as it were.

Nematodes - Good and Bad

2010-05-15T13:49:00.000+01:00

Nematodes are microscopic worm-like creatures in the soil that can help the tomato and vegetable gardener by attacking slugs and other unwanted pests.
Professional growers use these to control all sorts of nasties in the greenhouse.
However, there are some unfriendly nematodes that attack the roots of tomato plants and will cause a lot of trouble. This happens when old soil is used or plants are grown in the same place and soil each season.

Symptoms of Nematodes Affecting Tomato Plants

The symptoms include wilting during periods when plants are in hot, direct sunlight because they are unable to absorb enough moisture through their roots.

Plants become stunted because of a lack of nutrient uptake caused by damaged roots.

Leaves can become pale and a reduction in fruit yield is experienced.

As nematodes increase each season, the problems becomes worse.

Tomato Plant Cuttings

2010-05-12T18:44:00.000+01:00

Taking a cutting from a tomato plant is easy and will produce another plant that when its roots take, will be growing strongly in no time!

Remove the side shoot from a tall variety or one of the many shoots that grow on a bush plant that is about 3 or 4 inches in length.
Leave just two leaves on the cutting so that it won't need to support too many leaves.
Plant in seed compost and keep in a warm shaded place making sure the compost doesn't dry out.
If the cutting starts to wilt give a spray/mist with water.
The roots should form in about two weeks.

This is a great way to gain more plants, you'll also find that it will produce flowers more quickly than a similar size plant grown from seed.

Tomato Plants and Rain - Don't Let Them Get Cold and Wet!

2010-05-08T20:48:00.001+01:00

If you are growing tomatoes in the UK at the moment I recommend that you keep them out of the rain by providing them with some shelter during the day.

Of course, plants can't be left out overnight until the end of May - after the lost expected frost - but they also should not be allowed to stand outside in the cold during the day in the rain!

Sorry to be so direct about this, but if your lovely plants get cold and wet ... it will probably do them a lot of damage and they will be well on their way to a fungal disease!

It is now too late to start tomatoes from seed in the UK because the season (summer) will be over before the tomatoes mature, but if you still haven't started yet, tomato plug plants are the answer.

The low light conditions we are having in the UK at the moment are making tomato plants "leggy".

It is best not to water unless absolutely necessary when temperatures are cold and there is poor light, otherwise plants will become unwell (wet, cold soil makes them very unhappy) and leggy.

Hope to be more positive next time and also that the weather improves!

Heirloom Tomatoes Grow True to Type

2010-05-02T10:57:00.000+01:00

There are many wonderful heirloom varieties available to grow that will give you the taste of "yesteryear", the seeds have been saved and handed down the generations because of taste and other qualities that people have considered to be worth preserving.

Heirloom varieites grow "true to type" that is they produce the same tomatoes from the saved seeds.

Hybrids or F1 tomatoes won't produce the same tomatoes from their seeds because they have parents of different varieties. These different varieties will show themselves when the seeds from the tomatoes of the first generation are grown - they are considered to be unstable and may produce all sorts of unusual shapes and taste different.

That doesn't mean you can't save the seeds from hybrids - if you want to try, you may end up with some very interesting results. Perhaps not for the serious grower but you may have a lot of fun with the results.

Tomato Plant Side Shoots

2010-04-28T18:38:00.001+01:00

If you haven't grown tomatoes before, side shoots can be a bit confusing.

Here's a quick guide on which varieties to remove side shoots and which varieties to leave side shoots (sometimes called suckers) on the plant.

Tall Varieties
Remove side shoots on tall varieties like Moneymaker, Alicante, Gardener's Delight and Sungold.
Tall varieties are also called indeterminate or cordon.

Bush Varieties
Leave side shoots on bush varieties such as Tumbler, Tumbling Tom, Garden Pearl and Red Alert.
Bush varieties are also called determinate because they grow to a predetermined height.

Because bush varieties are only grow to between 1ft and 2ft high, they are great to grow in large pots and can be moved around the garden or patio if required.

The height of tall varieties means that they are going to stay in the same position all summer and are suitable for grow bags.

If you intend to grow tomatoes in your garden soil, it is likely that every bug under the sun will have a nibble on your tomato plants and tomatoes when they are ready, so unless you are an experienced gardener, I suggest you start with growing tomatoes in containers.

If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them. nick@tomatogrowing.co.uk

For more information on side shoots please visit the link below.
http://www.tomatogrowing.co.uk/html/side_shoots___trusses.html

Feeding Tomatoes

2010-04-25T19:20:00.000+01:00

Tomato plants require regular feeding when they are producing tomatoes but before then, will only require the minerals and nutrients that are already found in new compost.

This means that feeding tomatoes isn't really necessary until the flowers have set and small the small fruit start to grow.

One of the mistakes that people who are new to growing tomatoes make is to give give small plants tomato food. This is only necessary for tomato plants when they are fruiting, feeding young plants a full strength dose of tomato food can sometimes cause root damage.

These are some of the ways I would feed my small plants, and plants not yet fruiting.

General purpose plant food at half strength.
Liquid seaweed extract
An organic stimulant or tonic such as SB Plant Invigorator

Other nutrients that are sometimes used are epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) and extra calcium (to help prevent blossom end rot). Both of these "extras" may be given as a foliar feed to boost a plants intake of a particular nutrient, usually because of signs of a deficiency. The problem is however, as soon as symptoms appear in tomato plants, it is often too late to make much difference.

Don't get too concerned with feeding tomato plants because if you do, you'll probably kill them with kindness and give them too much.

To Sum Up

If plants have been transplanted into new compost - within the last four or five weeks - they do not need to be fed.

However, when transplanting, a half strength feed of general purpose food is helpful (but not essential) because it helps the plants become established in their new home.

Give tomato food (only) when plants start to fruit - little and often is the best way. Professional growers usually feed at every watering, at a reduced strength, so plants always have access to food as they need it.

Don't Put All Your Toms In One Basket

2010-04-22T07:55:00.001+01:00

If you're like me, you've sown tomato seeds this season and you probably have too many plants.

The problem is, the plants get bigger and bigger, need potting into bigger pots on a regular basis and the bag of compost gets lower and lower and it's back to the garden centre - again! (I know I should have bought that 3 for 2 offer).

If you have a lot of plants, especially the ones like Tumbling Tom that are suitable for hanging baskets, the temptation is to put too many plants into one basket.

In my experience one, two at the most, is the right amount because tomato plants need a reasonable amount of room for their roots. Also, the more plants you have in a hanging basket, the quicker it will dry out in warm weather.

One well grown plant can produce the same amount of tomatoes (or more) as two poorly grown plants that have had to struggle in crowded conditions.

So don't put all your toms in one basket - if you run out of room, the easiest and cheapest solution is to use a grow bag at three plants per bag.

See also: Tomato Quick Start Guide at the Tomato Growing website.

Know Your Nutrients - Feeding Tomatoes

2010-04-19T22:13:00.002+01:00

There are three macro nutrients, three secondary nutrients and six micro nutrients.

The secondary and micronutrients are sometimes called trace elements and are not always present in tomato food, although they should be present in a good quality tomato feed and compost.

The problem is, tomato plants are heavy feeders and will require all twelve elements after the food in your grow bag or container has been used up. So check the contents of your tomato food and if it doesn’t contain all of the elements listed below, supplement it with a general feed such as miracle grow or some other plant food that contains trace elements.

Macro N-P-K

Nitrogen (N) Macro nutrient - Under nitrogen deficiency, the older mature leaves gradually change from their normal green appearance to a much paler green. As the deficiency progresses these older leaves become uniformly yellow (chlorotic). Stunted growth and purpling/reddening along the veins on the underside of larger leaves.are also symptoms.

Phosphorus (P) Macro nutrient - a distinct purpling of the stem, petiole (leaf branches) and the under sides of the leaves. If deficiency is severe, leaves can develop a blue-gray luster and growth may be stunted.

Potassium (K) Macro nutrient - Leaves show marginal tip burn (necrosis) and again, growth may be stunted.

Secondary

Magnesium (Mg) Secondary -magnesium deficiency generally starts with mottled yellowing (chlorotic) areas that develop in between the leaf veins. As the deficiency progresses, small brown patches develop in the yellow areas.

Calcium (Ca) Secondary - show dying areas (necrosis) around the base of the leaves. Yellow/brown spots may also appear on the edge of leaves. These spots can also be surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge. This often affects the older leaves first.

Sulfur (S) Secondary - The veins and petioles (leaf branches) show a very distinct reddish colour. and leaves turn yellow.

Micro

Iron (Fe) Micro nutrient - show strong chlorosis (yellowing) at the base of the leaves with some green netting. Symptoms may also show yellowing of young leaves, while the veins remain green.

Manganese (Mn) Micro nutrient - Shows a light chlorosis of the young leaves and netted veins of the mature leaves especially when they are viewed through transmitted light.

Boron (B) Micro nutrient - Younger leaves show a light yellowing/browning. A cluster of leaves develop in the same place. Leaf margins twist and leaves become brittle.

Copper (Cu) Micro nutrient - Copper-deficient leaves are curled, and their petioles bend downward. Leaves show a wilted appearance with yellow to brown patches. Mature leaves may become bleached between the veins.

Zinc (Zn) Micro nutrient - The younger leaves become yellow and pitting develops in the interveinal upper surfaces of the mature leaves. Older leaves develop brown patches in between the veins. Young leaves very small and develop in a cluster in the same space.

Molybdenum (Mo) Micro nutrient - Leaves show some mottled spotting along with some interveinal chlorosis (yellowing). An early symptom for molybdenum deficiency is a general overall chlorosis, similar to the symptom for nitrogen deficiency but without the reddish coloration on the undersides of the leaves. Upward cupping of the leaves may also be seen.

You will notice that deficiencies show themselves usually on the lower leaves first. That’s because plants put all they have into top growth first and lower, older leaves tend to be second in the queue!

How to Grow Tomatoes - Beginners Guide

2010-04-04T19:40:00.000+01:00

How to grow tomatoes - a beginners guide.

There is nothing like the taste of home grown tomatoes, yet on the other hand, the frustration of poor results can often put off the "would be" tomato grower from trying again the following season. By the time the crop has failed it is often too late to start from scratch in the same season.

However, here are some tips and advice to help the beginner avoid the diseases and other problems associated with growing tomatoes. Many experienced gardeners will tell you that tomatoes are easy to grow - they are if you have had previous experience and know especially what tomato plants don't like.

Use new compost for seeds and plants because old soil or compost may contain all sots of nasties. Nutrients also degrade over time, so fresh comost (multi-purpose for example) is the most nutritious.
Clean and sterilise all pots and containers used last season - especially if they were used for tomatoes.
When seeds germinate, keep the seedlings in as light a position as possible to prevent them from becoming leggy.
Transplant seedlings into individual pots 3inch or slightly larger and increase pot size as plants grow.
Don't feed plants with tomato food until after pea-like tomatoes start to form as the flowers die. If plants are regularly potted-on into bigger pots containing new compost, they won't need to be fed as there is enough food in the compost.
Don't remove the flowers as these are the future tomatoes.
Stand plants in trays of water only when watering, then allow compost to almost dry out. Tomato plants need both moisture and air to grow a good root system and if they are stood in water all the time they will be vulnerable to disease.
Contrary to popular opinion, tomatoes don't like rain because they hate water on their leaves - especially overnight when the temperature drops. Wet leaves for just a few days and your lovely little plants will probably get blight - this is very bad!
Lastly, tomato plants can't cope with frost, or near frost temperatures, so keep them indoors overnight until after the last frost in your area.

Following the above tips will give a very good chance of success, by the way, cherry tomatoes are among the easiest to grow and a great place to start for beginners.

More tips and advice on how to grow tomatoes, especially for beginners, may be found at tomato growing.

When To Sow Tomato Seed

2010-03-20T09:05:00.001Z

My urge to start sowing tomato seed begins in January but knowing It's best to sow about eight to ten weeks before the last frost in my area (end of May to be safe) means that I should wait until around the end of March.

Of course I can't wait that long and already the porch and kitchen are full of tomato seedlings and there are more germinating in the airing cupboard upstairs!

The difficulty with growing tomatoes from seed is that there is only a small window of opportunity - too early and the plants won't get enough light etc., too late and the season has come to an end because of cold temperatures before the fruit matures.

It takes around two months from seed to flower, and about the same from flower to fruit - a total of four months.

This growing time can be shortened with cherry varieties that mature early such as Red Alert and Tumbler. They not only mature early but they are more likely to ripen in a poor summer, in part, because smaller plants and tomatoes have less growing to do.

If you would like to sign up the the free Tomato Growing Newsletter for lots of tips and free advice.

Tomato Plug Plants

2010-03-10T12:52:00.008Z

It's always a good feeling to sow a seed and watch it grow into a full size plant then eat its fruit ... very satisfying!

However, there are times when plug plants, or pot ready plants are extremely handy and fill an important role.

Here are just a few reasons why plug plants are helpful and avoid the following problems ...

Poor germination rates - Hybrid F1 seed is expensive!
Damping off - when seedlings are attacked shortly after germination by fungi and die.
Seedlings that have been grown in poor light conditions - without additional light - can become leggy.

Another advantage is that they are great for those who are new to growing tomatoes and will get you off to a great start without the above problems. Also, if you are planting in late Spring, you will still get ripe fruit before the season ends.

There are the disadvantages of not knowing the seed source, and also, not having as wide a choice as with seeds, but on balance, tomato plug plants are a great benefit for the tomato grower.

Plug plants are available by post directly from the nursery of Plants by Post of Nottingham UK, so why not get the season off to an early start - and an early crop of the tastiest tomatoes.

Big Tomatoes

2010-02-19T20:37:00.000Z

A neighbour came by the other day and asked if he could have 4 lbs of tomatoes ... I told him that I'm not prepared to cut one in half for anybody!

There are some fantastic big tomato varieties that are well worth a try. Brandywine which comes in pink, red and yellow - the original source of which came from the Amish farmers and is now a very popular heirloom variety with exceptional taste.

Caspian Pink (from Russia) and German Red Strawberry could become irresistable to grow once tasted!

A large Italian variety like Cuore di Bue (oxheart type) is also worth a try in your area. Just remember that these large varieties require good conditions to perform well. Also, large tomato varieties will usually take longer to mature than medium or cherry tomato varieties.

It is great to grow favourites each season, but it's also exciting to try something new ... I also recommend Oregon Spring as a great slicing tomato for sandwiches and terrific in a ploughman's lunch!

Don't forget to visit my tomato growing website for lots of tomato growing tips.

Choosing Varieties for Blight Tolerance/Resistance

2010-02-07T12:03:00.001Z

There are two varieties that are often advertised as being blight tolerant - these are Ferline and Legend.

Anyone who has grown tomatoes outdoors will know that wet weather for long periods will cause blight ... a serious fungal disease that attacks plants and fruit, making them useless.

The varieties Ferline and Legend are said to have some blight tolerance/resistance so I guess they are worth considering if you expect to have prolonged periods of wet weather during the growing season in your part of the world. Here in the UK it is almost guaranteed!

A couple of seasons ago I gave these varieties a try but was disappointed with the result. The tolerance level was no more than many of my other plants.

However, the season was so wet that no variety would have been able to withstand blight, owing to the rain and constantly wet leaves.

The symptoms of blight are brown patches on the leaves, plants and fruit that result in making the whole tomato plant useless.

The best way to protect against blight is to keep the leaves dry and sheltered from the rain.

Tomato Maskotka

2010-02-04T11:19:00.000Z

Maskotka is a bush cherry variety that I grew last season for the first time.

I now rate it among the best cherry varieties for container growing and I shall grow it again in 2010.

Its taste is excellent, it produces a good amount and the size is slightly larger than the average cherry tom such as Garden Pearl or Tumbling Tom.

I grew it in large pots to give it plenty of room. This usually produces a slightly larger fruit than if grown in crowded conditions.

If the weather is hot and you have a small container or hanging basket with several tomato plants in, you may need to water several times a day!

Adding water retaining gel or perlite to the soil/compost helps stop the soil from drying out. However, tomato plants, when fruiting, need lots of water and nutrients.

The taste of tomatoes may change from season to season depending on the amount of sun the plants receive.

In my experience I have found that a poor tasting variety one season, can have an excellent taste the following season. The amount of water or rain the plants receive, as the fruits swell, also has an influence on the taste.

Because of this, it is good to give a new variety two or three seasons to make a judgement on its taste - I hope it tastes as good this season!

Growing Red Alert Tomatoes

2010-02-03T11:02:00.000Z

Red Alert is one of the more difficult cherry varieties to grow.

It requires a good amount of light to stop it becomming "leggy" (over-watering adds to this problem) and it needs a larger container than most other cherry varieties for it to produce a good crop.

However, it is one of the earliest varieties I have grown, it produces a huge crop when grown in a large pot or container and its tomatoes are among the finest tasting - given a reasonable amount of sun during the season!

As an open pollinated variety (not F1) its seeds are cheap and you can save them for the following season.

Red Alert is very similar to Tumbler in size and taste, but Tumbler is an F1 variety with expensive seed.

Here is a typical seed packet description. I don't recommend growing Red Alert in a hanging basket but Tumbler will do well with limited root room.

A superb flavoured, outdoor bush tomato which is very early to mature and heavy yielding. The size of the fruit depends partly on the amount of root space. If grown in a hanging basket, the fruit will be slightly smaller than if grown in a large container. You can expect weights of 4-5lb (1.8-2.25kg) per bush. 55-60 days from transplanting.

It is a good idea to limit the amount of tomato plants in a hanging basket - one or two will be enough.

One well grown plant with plenty of room will produce as many tomatoes as two or three plants that are over-crowded in a limited space.

Sowing Tomato Seed Early - Part 2

2010-02-02T09:18:00.001Z

At this time of the year I can't wait to get started. Sowing different tomato varieties and seeing them germinate is one of the great pleasures of the season.

Most seasons I sow too early and end up with lots of plants that are unable to go outside overnight, because of the frost, and the house becomes crowded with tomato plants!

My plan this season is to sow a few bush varieties that can cope with lower light conditions without becoming too leggy - remembering that they need space as they grow and potted up into bigger pots. I tried this idea last season and it worked fine with Glacier - a variety that can cope with low temperatures and will grow as a bush or tall type.

The variety I recommend for this is Tumbling Tom. It comes in red and yellow types, doesn't get leggy and produces a good size cherry that tastes great.

Normally the sowing time for outdoor growing is around two months befroe the last frost date in your area.
However, it is possible to sow three months before the last frost date if you sow a bush variety like Tumbling Tom, keep them in as much light as possible and away from damp, cold conditions (inside of course) and don't over water them.

It's great to have your own tomatoes early in the season and there are ways to etend the growing season at the other end too!

Growing Tomatoes in Cold Conditions

2010-01-28T20:11:00.000Z

In November I blogged about starting an experiment to see if it is possible to grow tomatoes - in this case a cherry variety called Garden Pearl - over the winter period without extra light etc.

Here is the result on the 28th January 2010.

I've been very careful not to over water them as combined with cold night temperatures - in my porch - would probably cause fungal disease.

The low light levels have produced seedlings that are more "leggy" than you would expect when grown in the Spring, but they are still healthy enough to continue growing.

Of the three, the one in the center is the tallest but it also has the largest leaves.

As long as they don't shoot up like rockets, I think that they'll make it through to Spring and hopefully produce the earliest crop of Garden Pearl tomatoes I've had.

The important thing is not to over water tomato plants in periods of low light and cold conditions.

Also, growing a bush variety is easier because they are shorter and easier to move around into the light etc.

Sowing Tomatoes Early

2010-01-27T10:51:00.000Z

For outdoor growing, the best time to sow tomato seed is around two months before your estimated last frost date. So if the LFD date is the middle of May, you would sow around the middle of March.

However, is it possible, with a little extra TLC to sow earlier in order to get an early crop of tomatoes.

There are two problems that have to be worked around or overcome if you want to sow early:

Low Temperatures
Low Light Levels

Low temperatures may cause fungal disease - especially if plants receive too much water.
The other problem is that at low temperatures plant roots are unable to absorb the necessary nutrients for healthy growth.

Low light also contributes to poor growth. Solar energy is turned into chemical energy and plants create glucose, their main source of fuel, through photosynthesis - and that requires light. As a result, plants often become "leggy" because of their search for more light.

The Solutions

Artificial light and artificial heat and quite a lot of extra work!

I have found that growing bush varieties that won't become too leggy and keeping them in a cool (but not cold) area in as much light as possible, is a solution. You could also use a grow light to extend the daylight hours in the late winter and early spring.

In my next post I will let you know how the seedlings that I found growing in November in a large pot (they had self seeded from last season's plants) are doing.

Tomato Varieties To Grow This Season - Outdoors

2010-01-26T09:49:00.001Z

At the end of last season - just as the season before - I decided to limit the amount of tomato plants I'll grow.

Each season, kind people send me seed - which has to be sown! - and I end up growing far more plants than I had intended. So I decided to ask myself a question:

If I could only grow one cherry variety, one medium variety and one large variety, which ones would I grow?

My first choice would be the bush Tumbling Tom - it comes in both red and yellow strains (I cheated a bit there!) and it is a decent size cherry and very reliable. The red tastes different from the yellow and the plants produce a very good yield. Will grow very well in large pots.

There are many excellent tall varieties but the one I would choose for outdoor growing is Alicante.
This is one of the finest tasting varieties and dependable in an unpredictable summer - weather-wise!
Great in a grow bag up against a sunny wall or fence.

For my final choice I'm back to the bush varieties and Oregon Spring is a favourite of mine. Its taste, size and reliability make it a great choice for outdoor growing; However, it does need room for its roots so give it a good size container.

When I think of all the varieties that I've left out ....!

One thing to consider is that different varieties grow better or worse in different regions, so finding out the ones that best suit your area is a good way to a successful crop.

One thing you can do is to ask an experienced gardener at your local allotment. He or she will probably be happy to share his or her experience and tell you of their methods - possibly handed down the generations!

Cherry Tomatoes - Hundreds and Thousands

2010-01-25T10:02:00.001Z

It's fascinating to grow any variety of tomato, but cherry tomatoes are very much my passion.

Last season (2009) was successful even though we had some very wet and very dry weather making container growing more of a challenge.

The most abundant and highest yield bush variety was Hundreds and Thousands - 100s & 1000s. It is often the case that a small cherry variety will produce a huge crop, but I didn't quite expect this amount - the name lives up to the results!

Although this variety is on the small side of the usual cherry tomato size, its abundance and sweet taste makes it well worth growing in a large pot - kids will definately love them but will they make it to the kitchen before getting eaten?

A good place to get them in the UK is Tomato Seeds UK a new seed company that only sells this one variety!

More information about growing tomatoes may be found at: Tomato Growing and Tomato Growing Blog.

The Benefits of a Greenhouse

2010-01-14T08:38:00.000Z

As an enthusiastic tomato grower, if I were given two wishes I would choose ...

To able to sow early and extend the season
To be able to avoid tomato blight.

Ok ... I know that's really three wishes but I'm greedy! Well, having a longer season would be a great benefit and I could stagger my sowings rather than have to sow all of my seed within a just a few weeks.

Of course, a greenhouse gives the gardener a lot of advantages, here are a few more ...

Protection from the wind - it is often the last thing we think about when growing tomatoes, but the wind can be quite harmful, damaging roots around the base of stems and blowing pots over.
Protection from too much sun - I can't help smiling when writing this one because sometimes too much sun is a far off dream! However, young tomato plants, especially in containers, can really struggle in heat until their root systems are fully developed.

You won't need a big expensive greenhouse to receive some of these benefits, as long as you can keep your plants out of the rain, you'll go a long way in helping avoid tomato blight.

More information may be found at greenhouse growing.

Developing A Good Root System

2010-01-11T09:01:00.000Z

One thing that I have been guilty of is being too generous to my plants.

Too much water, too much tomato food ... basically killing them with kindness!

However, to develop a good root system, roots need air as well as water. Over-watering stunts their growth, and the soil, because of the added weight of water, becomes compacted.

Too much food too soon also has an adverse effect on root development because nutrient solution can build up in the soil and burn young roots. The same is true of having a solution that is too strong.

In the pic above, I've taken a Glacier (potato leaf variety) out of its pot and I hope you can see the nice white strong root ball.

This plant would be potted-on at this stage or put into its final position - depending on the time of year.

Know Your Roots

2010-01-09T18:56:00.000Z

As tomato growing enthusiasts, we are often more concerned about what's happening above the soil than we are below it. However, a good root system can help overcome many of the difficulties that a tomato plant faces throughout the season. It's a bit like being extra fit and healthy before they drop you off in the middle of the desert and you have to find your own way home!

Here are some of the advantages ...

Better able to cope with periods of hot weather.
A large root system is able to draw moisture from a larger area.

Better able to cope with poor quality soil.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders - especially when fruiting - and require a lot of nutrient uptake. A good root system helps immensly.

Better able to combat disease.
A strong plant will be the last to go down with any one of the many diseases that tomato plants are affected by.

A plant with a good root system will fruit earlier and produce better quality fruit.
A good root system will allow a tomato plant to grow at its optimum rate.

The next question is ... How do I help my tomato plants to develop a good root system?

Next post coming shortly ...

Tomato Seedlings in Cold Conditions

2009-12-17T09:38:00.000Z

In November I started an experiment to see if it is possible to grow tomatoes - in this case a cherry variety - over the winter period.

I've kept them in a light window and away from condensation that would probably result in a fungal infection.

Not watering too much, that is, keeping the soil almost dry, has also helped in keeping the seedlings healthy.

They are looking a little "leggy" but reasonably good for the middle of December.

Feeding will be unnecessary as the soil has plenty of nutrients and they won't need much at this slow rate of growth. Over-feeding and over-watering are two of the most popular mstakes that are made when growing tomatoes - killing them with kindness you might say!

Growing Tomatoes in Hot Weather

2009-11-24T10:27:00.000Z

Here in the UK at this time of the year, people who grow tomatoes dream of warm sunny days surrounded by their beloved plants and of course...lots of tomatoes!

However, it is easy to forget that seasons around the world are different, and my winter is someone's summer - I'm thinking of those who live "down-under" that's Australia to English people, or in any other part of the world that is hot right now.

Here are a few tips for keeping your tomato plants in good condition.

Don't put small plants in full sun for long periods until they have developed a good root system.
Have a mist/spray handy to water through the leaves if plants start to wilt.
Soil that dries out too quickly will probably cause blossom end rot in the fruit, so add gel, or perlite to the soil. An automatic watering system is great if you don't mind the expense.
Spray flowers to help fruit set.
Keep plants shaded if possible. When temperatures reach around 35 degrees C. and over, many varieties of tomato plant will stop growing.

More information about growing tomatoes in hot conditions.

Growing Tomatoes in the Winter

2009-11-16T08:26:00.002Z

Is it possible to grow tomatoes during the winter period, indoors without any extra lighting or hydroponic methods?

It is an interesting question because the urge to grow tomatoes all year round has tempted many to have a go at growing out of season - including me.

Looking at the little seedlings coming through the soil in a large pot, where a tomato from earlier this season had left its seeds, I decided to save three of the seedlings and put them in a small pot of there own.

Sowing tomato seed in November, and producing successful tomato plants, is possible for the commercial growers, growing in large greenhouses because they can control the temperature and the amount of (artificial) light the plants receive.

I've put the seedlngs in the lightest window in the house - my porch actually - and keep the temperature above freezing at night!

One guy who is doing this, or something similar, and writing about it on his blog is at the link below.

http://thegardenrockstar.com/2009/11/tomatoes-all-year-the-experiment-begins/

Tomato Growing

2009-10-29T16:13:00.003Z

This blog will start again in the Spring of 2010.

However, during the winter period I'll write a few posts if I can think of anything useful to say!

Late Season Success & Disappointments

2009-09-12T11:14:00.003+01:00

It is at this time of the year when I'm pleased to have grown a few varieties that mature towards the end of the season. Of course, if we get a poor summer ( a bit like we've just had in the UK) most varieties will mature late.

Anyway, Tumbling Tom yellow is still going strong, First in the Field (last in the garden) is beginning to do its thing and New Yorker looks as if it might produce a ripe tom before the end of the season - if I'm lucky!

I can't believe that Garden Pearl has taken so long to mature and that the taste of my Red Alert toms were not as good as they have been in previous seasons. Never mind, The Santa - red and yellow - tomatoes are producing well and they taste really nice - a bit like grapes actually.

I've still got a few varieties with only green tomatoes on them but the sun we're having at the moment should help a lot. A tray of tomatoes that are almost ripe are in the windowsill warming in the sun - it is difficult to throw away toms that are perfectly ok even if they are green - I must get a recipe or two for fried green tomatoes!

The Weather Is On The Turn

2009-09-02T20:08:00.003+01:00

The temperature is dropping and it seems as if the Autumn is here. This is the time when the tomatoes slow down their ripening and I still have a few plants that haven't even started to produce fruit yet!

The large varieties are usually the last to ripen but there is still a Garden Pearl, in the greenhouse of all places, that has just started to fruit.

The Red Alert, Tumbling Tom red, and the Maskotka are on their last, but the Tumbling Tom yellow is still going strong and the First In The Field (I call it last in the garden!) has just come into its own.

My favourite large variety, Oregon Spring, didn't perform well this season, and neither did Gardener's Delight which is an old dependable - usually - but tasted watery this year.

There are a number of things that affect tomato taste:

The variety.
The amount of water a plant has received.
The way a plant has been fed.
The amount of sunshine.

I think that the last one, the amount of sunshine, has been the most significant in the UK this summer - I've had quite a few reports of poor taste in varieties that would normally shine :)

Still a few weeks left - and all those green tomatoes yet to ripen!

Tomato - Maskotka & Tumbling Tom Yellow

2009-08-27T09:16:00.007+01:00

Not much has been happening in the garden this past week. However, this is the time of the season when I like to compare the different tastes straight off the plants.

Although each variety has its own characteristic taste, it is also true that the taste does vary from season to season depending on the conditions.

The star of the season has been Maskotka (red in pic) for taste and quantity. It was also relatively early and fought well against the poor weather that we've had in the UK this summer - last season was also very wet and caused me to grow most of my outdoor plants under cover this summer.

Another star has been Tumbling Tom Yellow (pic). It has been later to mature than most of my other cherries, but the taste is zingy and intense with a meaty after-taste ... they look fantastic too!

I would say that these two varieties are the best tasting in my garden this season.

I think I'll buy some plain white plates!

Green Tomatoes - Tips for Ripening

2009-08-20T16:23:00.004+01:00

We are still waiting for a few days of sunshine and the ripening of the many green tomatoes that are still on the plants.

If your first toms are still green but full size, I recommend that you feed (with tomato food of course) twice each week or every other watering. This should bring them on and hopefully get them turning colour.

However, don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended feeding instructions for more than three weeks or you may damage the plants roots due to a build-up of nutrients in the soil.

Also, if you are concerned that you have given too much or the strength of the solution was more than you had intended, give the soil a good flush through with clean water.

I still have some varieties such as Alicante without one red tomato, yet Red Alert has been fruiting since June!

If you wish, as soon as a tomato begins to turn colour, pick it and put it in a bowl with a ripe banana. The ethylene (?) from the banana helps ripen toms more quickly.

Thankfully many of the varieties I grow are producing ripe tomatoes and one of the stars of the season has been Maskotka, a cherry bush variety. The fruit are large for a cherry tom and the quantity and taste are also very good.

Tomato Split

2009-08-18T12:59:00.004+01:00

One heavy downpour of rain and some tomato varieties will split quite easily. Even in the greenhouse irregular watering may cause toms to split, and the worse variety for splitting is Sungold.

However, Sungold is also the sweetest tom I've ever tasted, so it does have its good points!

Irregular watering is the main reason why tomatoes split so I water my toms even if they don't need it and when they do, I'll not give them too much.

If you see a plant wilting give it a spray mist of water but don't over-do the watering.

The good thing about cherry varieties like Sungold is that you won't get blossom end rot which affects mainly medium and large varieties. This means that the main consideration is to not over-water, rather than keep the entire soil area of the roots moist in order to avoid BER.

Maskotka - First in the Field

2009-08-15T20:48:00.004+01:00

With so much happening in the garden at this time of the season, it is difficult to know where to start.

My three Maskotka plants have blight after fighting valiantly in the rain - I would give the title of "blight tolerant" to this variety any day considering how often they've been rained-on!

The large varieties (usually later than smaller size toms) are beginning to ripen so I'm taking a few that are turning colour off of the heavy laden trusses. Sometimes a truss can be so heavy that it pulls off the main stem.

On the subject of tomato taste, I think it would be reasonable to say that strong flavoured toms with an acid prominence would go well with strong or spicy tasting food, and toms with a more balanced or sweeter taste would go well with more subtle tasting food.

My wife and I love salmon - we don't eat it very often because of the expense - but I can tell you that an assortment of the right flavoured tomatoes, that suite the subtle taste of salmon, is heaven on a plate. I can't think of a meal I would rather have!

I'm still waiting for First in the Field - it's last in the garden (almost), but like many of the medium and larger varieties they're struggling to ripen because of the poor summer we've had.

A few days of warm sunshine in the UK and we'll be in tomato heaven. If you live in a different part of the world I hope you've had less rain!

Taste & Colour

2009-08-14T19:59:00.004+01:00

I spend so much time thinking about the best ways to grow tomatoes I often ignore the subject of eating them.

Left is a pic of three varieties, Auriga (orange) Red Alert (red-obviously!) and Tumbling Tom (yellow).

I like to compare the different tastes and have three colours which look great in a salad - actually I ate them with a bacon sandwich!

The taste of Auriga is sweet with a little acid.
The taste of Red Alert is a balance of sugar and acid.
Tumbling Tom yellow has a tart zingy taste - still sweet but with attitude. Actually, they look similar to how they taste!

With so many varieties to choose from now, and plenty more about to mature, this is the most productive time of the season and the time I look forward to all year - the neighbours are quite happy too, now that they receive some of the overflow!

100's & 1000's

2009-08-13T10:55:00.002+01:00

A couple of weeks ago 100's & 1000's (left) was on my list of tomatoes that are too small to grow. However, the taste is really very very good!

A balance of sugar and acid that is truly traditional - just a pity about the size, although you do get a lot of them.

The toms that have been exposed to the rain we've had lately do taste a little "watery" and don't have their usual intense flavour.

With so many varieties to try it's difficult to decide which ones to grow again next season, however, 100's & 1000's are on my list of best tasting toms!

Vilma

2009-08-11T17:01:00.007+01:00

Each season I like to grow a couple of tomato plants inside my porch which gets the morning sun 'till about midday.

Last year it was Micro Tom which did quite well but the toms were a bit too small for my liking. This year my neighbour gave me two Vilma plants which I planted in six inch pots and just let them get on with it.

As you can see they're doing well and the toms are a decent size cherry - they also taste good too!

Of course I won't get the amount from these plants that I would from Red Alert or Tumbling Tom, which are much bigger plants, but I'm very pleased with this variety and I'll grow them again next season.

Having so much great looking soil/compost left at the end of each season, that I won't use twice on the tomatoes, I decided to have a go at growing a few other vegetables.

My wife loves runner beans so I planted a few in containers with pretty good results. The rain we've had lately has helped a lot.

So I'll keep the soil from the toms and use it again next season on runner beans

The Season So Far - August 10th

2009-08-10T18:31:00.006+01:00

It has been a while since my last post having been on holiday for the past week but there is no escaping the weather here in the UK - it has been wet most days in almost every part of the country but we did get some sun over the weekend.

However, on the bright side, I am surprised that none of my plants has blight because this time last year (which was also very wet) was a total disaster and most people who grow their toms outdoors suffered from this dreaded fungal disease.

The plants that are producing ripe fruit are mainly the bush varieties - Red Alert, which was the first to fruit was maturing at the beginning of June!

One of the stars of the season so far has been Maskotka - another bush cherry variety with good size fruit and a good tomato taste. I'll definitely grow this variety again next season.

Growing a couple of plants in the windowsill is something that is also great fun. Last season I tried Micro Tom but was disappointed by the very small fruit. This season my neighbour gave me two Vilma plants and their fruit size has been impressive for a pot cherry.

Tumbling Tom (red and yellow) , Garden Pearl, Minibel, Maskotka, Red Alert and Vilma are all fruiting now but the toms of my other varieties are still green.

A few days of sun will see a big improvement and I can't wait to taste some of the new varieties growing this season.

On The Verge!

2009-07-30T20:02:00.005+01:00

About a month ago I thought that in a week or two I would be over-whelmed with ripe tomatoes!
Unfortunately I'm still waiting to be over-whelmed although I have received a modest trickle of ripe tomatoes that have kept my wife and I modestly supplied.
However, my neighbours who, normally about this time of the season, receive bags of the best toms imaginable haven't had any yet and are probably wondering if I still like them!

Well, I'm on the verge of being inundated and over-whelmed - all we need is some sun.

Last season was a disaster for many growers owing to the constant rain and I, and I'm sure lots of other people, are hoping that the weather turns in our favour and starts to act like a sunny summer.

Getting The Better of Slugs & Snails

2009-07-28T17:02:00.003+01:00

How to avoid your precious tomatoes from being given a nasty suck by these little pests is a problem.

You could stay up all night with a torch and catch everyone of them but that would be a bit extreme! Instead, my method is to distract them with an old damaged tomato in an easy place for them to find.

Another thing they love is a French Marigold. Growing these between your plants (companion planting) is supposed to deter some aphids - but slugs and snails love them and I would rather sacrifice a Marigold or two than my best tomatoes.

If you go out into the garden with a torch just after sundown, you'll find most of these pests and be able to throw them into an area of your garden where some other little animal such as a hedgehog may find a meal. I sometimes hear them crunching in the night!

Rain, Progress and Tradition

2009-07-25T21:54:00.002+01:00

The last few days have brought both sunny and wet weather - but mainly wet!

If this were last season my plants would be suffering from blight by now but the shelter that they have has definitely made a difference.

Balancing organic against conventional methods, that is, spraying with anti-fungicide or not is something that I think most gardeners are aware of, and like to ere on the organic side of growing whenever possible.

The best varieties to grow, when using organic methods, are the ones that are most resistant to disease. These varieties are usually recent F1 hybrids that have been developed for their resistance to disease and other tomato problems.

However, there is something rather reassuring about growing heirloom or heritage varieties but sadly many of these need more protection against disease than their more recently developed counterparts.

Many would call F1 hybrid tomatoes progress, and I suppose that if we were making a living from growing tomatoes I would be relying on these to pay the bills, but I think that real tomato growing is about growing traditional, open pollinated varieties and keeping alive the taste and traditions of the past.

Tomato Plant Types

2009-07-21T10:28:00.005+01:00

There are hundreds of different varieties of tomato plants that bare fruit of many shapes, sizes and colours. But there are basically just two types - the tall type and the bush type ... not forgetting the type in between!

The terminology can be confusing when talking about indeterminate, cordon, determinate, semi-determinate, bush and tall varieties, so here's a guide that I hope will make things clear.

Tall: indeterminate and cordon - plants that will keep on growing taller until they are stopped.
In between: semi-determinate - can be grown either as a tall or bush variety.
Bush: determinate - a bush variety - knows how tall to grow!

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages for example, tall varieties are great to grow up against a wall, whereas bush varieties excel in large pots on the patio.

Tomato Growing Ebooks - Are They Useful?

2009-07-20T11:12:00.003+01:00

There is so much free information online it seems a bit unnecessary to pay money for - especially when you could go to my website or even send me an email if you have a question about tomatoes and I'll get back to you with an answer.

However, it could be rather good to sit down and read all about growing tomatoes in a step by step fashion and learn from scratch about the different aspects of growing - all from one source.

Furthermore, when a problem occurs, a good ebook should have a section that can help with leaf diseases and fruit problems - this can be very useful and time saving. Whenever I need an answer about something it can take ages to read through all the forum posts etc. and never really get the info. I want.

So, are ebooks about growing tomatoes useful? ... I would say - yes they are- if they contain enough detail and are written by people who know their subject.

I've put together a little review of three popular tomato growing ebooks which I hope you may find interesting.

Avoid Blossom End Rot

2009-07-17T21:44:00.002+01:00

This season I seem to be obsessed with just two tomato problems - Blight and Blossom End Rot or BER for short.

Having read about the many wonderful and strange ways to avoid BER I thought that this season I would give some a try, so I saved the egg shells and found a pack of indigestion tablets in the back of the cupboard.

I ground the egg shells in a pestle and mortar earlier in the season and sprinkled the powdered shells around the base of my tall varieties of Alicante, Golden Sunrise, Tamina and Gardener's Delight earlier in the season to give the calcium time to affect the soil.

I recently, just as the flowers started to set, dissolved an indigestion tablet (spearmint to be exact!) in the watering can and repeated this a couple of weeks later.

All of these varieties have toms that are almost full size, although still green, and there is no sign of blossom end rot on anyone of them!

Was it because of my thorough watering - or the egg shells - or the indigestion tablets, the last two of which contain calcium? Well, I don't know for sure and to be perfectly honest I don't care because for the first time in my growing experience, there is not a tom with BER anywhere to be seen!

I do have one Oregon Spring tomato that has a slight touch of BER, but I started this plant early in the season and colder temperatures make it more difficult for plants to absorb nutrients so low temperatures would account for this.

I shall of course, for the record, test to see which of the two additions of calcium is the most effective before the end of the season.

Also, you can buy calcium especially produced for plants so this is another, more conventional option. I rather like being a bit unconventional at times!

Growing Tomatoes Upside Down

2009-07-16T06:57:00.003+01:00

Growing tomatoes upside down has become very popular over the last season or two, but like any way to grow tomatoes, there are advantages and disadvantages and I would like to mention a few of them below.

Advantages

Off the ground at easy picking height.
More difficult for bugs to attack.
Branches on bush varieties are less likely to be pulled off by the weight of the tomatoes.
Good air circulation.
Easier to remove dying leaves.
Spot diseases early as plant is more visible.

Disadvantages

The weight - the handle and bracket needs to be very strong or you may hear a thump in the night!
The small root area - small plants that have less root requirements are going to enjoy it more.
The likelihood of the soil drying out quickly - needs daily watering in warm weather.

Overall, growing tomatoes upside down is fun and has many advantages. It certainly looks great on the patio when the friends and family visit ... just be aware that the ease of picking will mean that those juicy toms won't be hanging there for very long!

Saving Your Own Tomato Seed

2009-07-14T10:27:00.000+01:00

I expect that most people who grow tomatoes have considered saving their own seed for the following season. This is a great idea but there are a couple of things to be aware of.

You can only save heirloom or open pollinated types if you want them to grow "true to type" like their Mum and Dad*** these are all varieties except hybrid F1's. If you save and sow F1's your toms won't grow like their parent(s) - they'll be F2's which for tomato plants are probably going to produce something different.

Moneymaker crossed with Gardener's Delight = Money Delight

At this point I should suggest a competition for the most amusing cross but I'll resist that!

How to Save the Seeds

Remove the seeds and juice into a glass or small container and cover with cling film etc and add a little water... just enough to cover the seeds.

Keep for about a week during which time a mold will develop called a "mother". This mold will sterilise the seeds.

Rinse the seeds then put them into a glass of water ... the good seeds will sink and the bad seeds will float. Dry the good seeds on kitchen towel for a day or so, until they are completely dry then store in an airtight container such as a container for vitamin pills etc.

*** Tomato plants have flowers that are self-pollinating, that is, they don't need another plant to fertilise their flowers. Although, sometimes a Bumble Bee can cross fertilise one variety with another - as above.

Removing Leaves - The Kind Way!

2009-07-13T11:00:00.000+01:00

There is a very well advertised e-book on the web that advocates de-leafing to an extreme degree.

Each season I remind myself to try this method (on just one plant) but for some reason I can't bring myself to strip a tomato plant of almost all its leaves - just leaving a few at the top!

It is certainly a good idea to remove the lower leaf branches up to the first truss.
This will improve air flow and help prevent bugs and diseases from getting out of control - it also helps a plant send its nutrients to the parts that are most in need, that is the fruit and growing tip.

It is standard practice for professional growers to remove leaves up to the truss that is fruiting. This means that as tomatoes ripen, all leaves are removed below the truss with the ripe tomatoes.

Eventually most of the plant is without leaves but this is all done gradually over a period of weeks and months and I believe this should not be attempted over a period of just a few days - unless you want to send your poor plant into shock!

Glacier - Bush or Tall Variety?

2009-07-12T10:43:00.001+01:00

I really like to experiment and try out new ways to grow my favourite plants ... tomato plants of course!

Glacier is a cherry variety that sets in cool conditions and last season I tried growing it as a bush variety. It was very early but it did not produce the amount of toms that I had hoped for.

This season I have just one Glacier plant and it's growing as a tall variety with much better results.
The lowest truss has about 70 flowers on it and so far, about half of them have set.

This year I'm growing it under cover which also makes a difference so there's no worry about blight and its taste being drowned by too much rain.

I think I'll grow Glacier again next season and let you know about the taste in a couple of weeks time when the first tomatoes mature.

The Season So Far - Part 2

2009-07-11T09:38:00.003+01:00

Having started this season with the determination not to sow too many seeds of the same variety, I wanted the room to try some new varieties that I've not grown in the past.

Among these is Maskotka, a cherry/bush variety that has performed brilliantly. Its fruit is a consistent size and the toms taste as good as Red Alert - the standard by which I judge all my cherry/bush varieties.

Of course taste is not consistent, that is, it depends on a number of variables, one of which is the amount of water a plant receives. Too much water literally dilutes fruit taste.

A tomato plant absorbs water, and the nutrients the water contains by osmosis. This is the upward suction of water and nutrients into a plant to create leaves and fruit etc.
Excess water is evaporated through leaves but if the nutrients are greatly diluted, the plant has to absorb a lot of water to get the same amount of nutrients - follow me so far?

This means that the more water you give a plant, the less nutrients it will receive per measure, and thats why you can dilute the taste by over-watering. Phew - I hope you understand my explanation!

The Season So Far

2009-07-10T07:40:00.002+01:00

The first week or two of July gives a good idea of how successful the season is likely to be.

Just about every plant is loaded with green tomatoes and about four bush varieties, that I started early, have been giving a steady flow of ripe toms for the past two or three weeks.

The main concern now, is blossom end rot on the medium and large varieties.

Looking at the underside of the green tomatoes that are nearly full size, I have noticed that only one tom, out of many, has a touch of BER so I would consider this a great success.

If it takes a minimum of two months to go from flowers to mature fruit, any flower buds that haven't opened by mid July, won't be fruiting in time before the end of the season, in the UK that will be around the end of September - beginning of October when the weather (usually) turns too cold for growing outdoors.

The biggest change I've made this season is that I'm growing all my outdoor plants under cover - shelters or lean-too's etc. around the garden. This means that I don't need to worry too much about tomato blight which destroyed most of my outdoor plants last season!

Tomato Growing in the Rain

2009-07-06T21:14:00.006+01:00

The week has begun with much cooler temperatures and plenty of heavy showers.

Because last season was so disappointing owing to tomato blight, I've become extra sensitive to my plants being destroyed again by rain and fungal disease.

However, tomato plants are able to absorb moisture through their leaves as well as their roots, and this can be helpful in the prevention of blight.

If you can stop their soil from becoming soaked through with rain, tomato plants will absorb some of the rain on their leaves which helps to dry the plant leaves more quickly.

This means that if you water less when wet weather is expected and prevent rain from the area around the plants roots, this can help to dry-out plants that have been given a good soaking on a wet day!

Have you ever wondered why tomatoes split when it rains but don't usually split when you give them a good watering. It's because water through both roots and leaves are too much for the tomato skins to cope with.

Don't forget to resume normal watering when the weather improves or blossom end rot will be the next challenge ... who said that growing tomatoes is easy?

When It's Too Hot

2009-07-03T17:04:00.004+01:00

We've had some very warm weather here in the UK over the past few days and my container tomatoes are wilting - both from the sun above and the hot patio below!

The quickest way to revive a plant that is wilting is to spray it with a mist of water, 'though this is not recommended if the plant is behind glass as it can cause leaf burn.

Another drawback of prolonged periods of warm weather is that the air can become very dry.
This will effect flower pollination as the pollen becomes too dry to transfer successfully from the stamen to the pistil and self-fertilise.

One way to help pollination in these conditions is to wet the floor area where your plants are growing - the patio or greenhouse floor etc. This will produce some humidity, however temporary, and may help the situation.

Some days I have to water twice ... reluctantly. However, It's that exciting time of the season when you can get a good idea just how successful your plants will be - if we get a good summer of course!

Removing Lower Leaves on Tomato Plants

2009-06-30T11:09:00.003+01:00

As we come to the time of the season when many gardeners will be watching their first and even second trusses developing on their tall varieties, the lower leaves may be showing signs of decay and bug damage.

Changing yellow in colour and small dark patches are common as plants send their nutrients to the grow tip and of course their fruit.

I recommend that you remove lower leaves - gradually over a period of a week or two - up to the first truss. However, if you don't have a first truss yet, keep things as they are so as not to stress the plant.

By removing lower leaves your plant will get:

Better air circulation around the base of their stems
Less bug activity
Less chance of fungal disease
More energy for the fruit and top growth
Earlier ripening

This applies to tall (cordon, indeterminate) plants and not bush varieties. However, if you see yellowing or damaged leaves on your bush plants, I would remove them too.

Waiting for the Flowers to Set

2009-06-28T20:51:00.003+01:00

One reason why a tomato variety is early is because its flowers set early in the season, and therefore, its tomatoes will reach maturity early too - all things being equal.

In my experience Red Alert and Glacier are among the earliest varieties to set their flowers and produce "baby toms" and I know that these will also be the first to produce fruit.

Among the cherry varieties, I would put Red Alert first, followed by Tumbling Tom, and then Garden Pearl as the order for flower set among these three varieties.

It can be frustrating waiting for flowers to set fruit, especially if they are affected by blossom drop - when a flower drops off its stem because it did not pollinate.

Keep misting with water and tapping those plants ... you'll get some results soon!

Tomato Taste

2009-06-23T07:59:00.004+01:00

I suppose that real tomato taste is one of the main reasons why people grow tomatoes but what makes one tomato taste different from another?

If you grow tomatoes, there are five things that affect their taste:

The variety.
The amount of sun they receive.
The amount of water they receive.
The minerals available in the soil.
Time since picked.

The variety you choose to grow has the biggest affect on taste. Sungold, for example is very sweet with little acid whereas Gardener's Delight has a more traditional flavour that is a good balance of both sugar and acid content.

Other flavours are more difficult to describe but every variety has its own distinctive taste when just picked.

The sun they receive helps to develop the flavours too. It's not just because you are on a happy holiday on the Mediterranean that everything tastes great - it's because of the amount of sun!

Nutrients and minerals are needed by the plant to develop taste. The more water there is in the soil, the more diluted the nutrients are. This means that plants that are over-watered produce tomatoes that are less strong in flavour.

If you don't give your plants all the nutrients they need their flavour will be reduced.

It is well known that most fruit is best picked and eaten as soon as possible to get the full goodness of vitamins and taste - this also applies to tomatoes.

I suppose that's why they say: "there's only two things that money can't buy - true love and home-grown tomatoes!"

Encouraging Flowers to Set

2009-06-22T12:32:00.005+01:00

One of the most frustrating times when growing tomatoes is when the flowers drop off of their stems - it's called blossom drop.

Here you can see where the flowers were and the reason they drop of is because they fail to pollinate or set.

There are a number of reasons why this can happen.

The air is too dry or the air is too humid are two common reasons.

One way that helps avoid this happening is to spray the flowers with a mist of water and tap the plant or pot gently.

This helps to move the pollen in each of the flowers from the stamen into the pistil in order to fertilize the flower.

Tomatoes are self-fertilizing and contain both the male and female parts.

Bumble Bees are excellent for this as their wing vibration and method of honey collection also helps the process.

When the pollen reaches the bottom of the pistil the flower begins to develop a very small pea-like tomato that grows to its variety size.

(Thank you to the owner of this photo).

Watering & Containers

2009-06-20T08:01:00.006+01:00

I really enjoy growing bush (and tall) varieties in large pots and containers, although bush varieties are the most suitable.

However, one of the biggest drawbacks is that pots and containers dry-out quickly leaving roots in dry soil which may cause other complications.

Dry roots are unable to absorb nutrients, the most obvious being calcium resulting in blossom end rot - BER.

This pic shows the bottom of a tomato affected with blossom end rot - the wall of the tomato was unable to develop fully owing to a lack of calcium because of dry roots.

The problem with dry roots is that you can water your containers and even though the surface looks as if the plant has been watered, beneath, there may be pockets of soil that remains bone dry.

The reason is that water always finds the easiest root out, and that could mean that half of your plants roots could be dry after watering and unable to absorb nutrients - in this case calcium.

A good way to water plants in containers:
Give them a good soaking every other day rather than a little each day - but don't keep the soil continually wet as roots also need air.

Of course if the weather is very warm and the plants are fruiting, you may need to water every day anyway!

However, the idea is that all of the root area should be in moist soil - for most of the time - which enables the roots to absorb the food they need.

One point to make is that I've never had a cherry tomato with blossom end rot - it is the medium and large varieties that are prone to calcium deficiency.

I took this photo of Tumbler about eight years ago and it shows the toms trailing over the side of the large pot. These days I grow Red Alert instead of Tumbler F1 because it is difficult to get the seeds and they were expensive!

The taste is also very similar .... more about taste in the next post.

Tomato Blight

2009-06-17T09:47:00.004+01:00

This is the effect of last season's wet summer on my tomato plants.

It wasn't the cold that caused the blight, it was the rain - day after day - the leaves of plants could barely get dry between showers.

However, on a dryer, happier note, it is not going to happen to my plants this season!

Every outdoor plant is either under a shelter of some kind or can be moved under cover if we get prolonged periods of rain. That's one of the advantages of growing bush tomatoes in large pots etc. is that they can be moved if necessary.

Of course there are blight tolerant varieties available - I use the word tolerant rather than resistant because even these varieties could not cope and went down with blight. The two varieties I'm referring to are Ferline and Legend.

I've sometimes heard people say "the rain will do them good" well, a little drop maybe, but wet leaves for more than a day or two will probably result in the beginnings of what you see in the picture above!

Grow Bags & Tomato Plants

2009-06-15T20:23:00.005+01:00

When planting toms in a grow bag, try to keep the moisture in the grow bag from evaporating by keep the compost inside covered. Plant through cuts in the top without removing any of the plastic cover and water through pots sunk into the compost.

Although water needs to drain away, make holes in the end of the grow bag (not the middle) so that the water doesn't escape too easily.

It's also a good idea to remove the lower leaf branches - gradually - to improve aeration around the base of the plants - especially if you are growing in a greenhouse with three plants to each grow bag.

Removing Lower Leaf Branches

2009-06-14T21:38:00.002+01:00

With twelve tall (indeterminate - cordon) plants in my small greenhouse competing for space, removing the lower leaves helps increase aeration around the base of the plants and helps prevent problems such as fungal disease.

This also helps tomato plants mature more quickly - they can give all their energy to the upper part of the plants growth.

When removing lower branches, give them a sharp pull upwards (trying not to damage the main stem). If you remove the stems with a knife or scissors, the blades of these can transmit disease from plant to plant, so it's best to remove by hand where there is no contact at the point of the open wound.

Pruning Bush Varieties

2009-06-13T21:32:00.004+01:00

I love growing bush varieties for a number of reasons. One of those reasons is that you get branches growing in all directions and countless clusters of flower buds that make pruning a plant a complicated series of decisions ... should I remove them or not?!

My wife thinks that I should get out more often and experience the world that exists beyond our garden, and the tomato plants I love so dearly, but I am happiest when I'm pruning my favourite bush varieties which this season have increased in number.

The problem is, at this time of the season, bush varieties can produce hundreds of flower clusters and potentially thousands of tomatoes from one plant, which is of course unrealistic!

I like to remove some of the small flower clusters if a plant already has advanced flowers and some that have set in order to give the most advanced flowers a boost.

It is true in my experience that the more flowers a plant produces, the longer it takes for them to set and produce mature tomatoes.

Always pleased to hear from anyone by email if you have a comment, question or would just like to say hello. email me here

The website has a lot more info. www.tomatogrowing.co.uk

Removing Side Shoots

2009-06-08T09:58:00.006+01:00

Even though we've had two days of constant rain, I've managed to keep my outdoor plants dry (well almost).

It is amazing how easy it is to miss seeing side shoots and pinching them out is a pleasurable job especially when a long one is found!

In the pic you can see that the middle shoot growing out of the elbow of the main stem and leaf branch is the shoot that needs removing.

It doesn't matter if they grow two or three inches, but it's best to remove them as soon as possible to enable the plant to concentrate its energy in the main stem and top growth.

You may find that lower leaves begin to turn yellow. This is quite normal and the lower leaves can be removed.

Although the lower leaves are nearest the roots, they will mainly be ignored as the plant gets taller and most of the nutrients etc. are sent to the top of the plant.

See also: side shoots and trusses

First Tomatoes to Mature - Red Alert

2009-06-06T11:59:00.005+01:00

Perhaps I should rename my blog tomato weekly because It has been a while since my last post!

Anyway, we've had some wonderful tomato growing weather recently and all my plants are doing fine. However, as I write it is pouring down outside, but fortunately, this season all the tom plants are covered from the rain - I'm determined not to suffer from blight as I did last season.

My most advanced plants and the first tomatoes to mature this season will be Red Alert probably followed by Tumbling Tom.

I sowed the seed of these varieties back at the end of February and pampered and protected them to get the earliest toms possible. Of course this is not really practical because if I added up all the time spent and the extra heat etc. just to get a few plants to mature in June, each tom costs much more than it would in the shops ... but I grew them and they'll taste fantastic - I hope!

As far as protection is concerned, I do have two small greenhouses but the real challenge is growing outdoors, or perhaps outdoors but protected from the rain. If we have several days of wet weather, blight is almost guaranteed so some protection is worth the extra effort.

The tomatoes in the picture above, Red Alert, should be turning red soon!

Feeding Tomatoes

2009-05-23T07:35:00.002+01:00

Tomato Plants are heavy feeders when they are fruiting but will only require the minerals and nutrients that will already be found in new compost/soil.

This means that feeding tomatoes is unnecessary until the flowers set and small, pea size fruit appear.

An easy mistake to make, if you are new to growing tomatoes, is to give your small plants tomato food. This food is only for tomato plants when they are fruiting and may cause root damage.

If you want to give plants a boost before they begin to fruit I would recommend the following:

General purpose plant food such as miracle grow at half strength.
Liquid seaweed extract - a general tonic and very useful when transplanting.

There are other nutrients that may be given such as epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) and extra calcium (to help prevent blossom end rot). However, these should be given with care because sometimes too much of one mineral may prevent a plant absorbing another, especially if foliar feeding.

The thing is not to get too obsessed with feeding tomato plants (as I have done in the past) because if you do, you'll probably give them too much.

Conclusion

If plants have been transplanted into new compost or soil - within the last five weeks - they do not need to be fed.

When transplanting, a half strength feed with general purpose food is helpful (but not essential) because it helps the plants become established in their new home.

Give tomato food (only) when plants start to fruit - little and often is the best way. Professional growers usually feed at every watering, at a reduced strength, so plants alway have access to food.

Prevention Is Better Than Cure

2009-05-18T12:09:00.002+01:00

This season I'm determined not to get caught-out.

I've suffered blight, disease and blossom end rot in previous seasons but I think this time I am well prepared.

All of my outdoor plants are under some kind of shelter to avoid blight due to rain.

I've sterilized all the equipment used last season to help avoid disease and used fresh compost.

Blossom end rot doesn't usually effect cherry tomatoes but all the medium and large varieties have water retaining gel added to the compost to prevent is from drying out and causing calcium deficiency. You don't need gel if you can keep the soil constantly moist - but that can be difficult.

Another tip I should mention is to stake and support your bush varieties. Windy conditions can put a lot of stress on main stems and can cause damage. For low plants like Tumbling Tom, stick a few short canes into the compost between the branches.

Yellow Leaves

2009-05-16T19:20:00.002+01:00

If the leaves at the bottom of your plants are showing signs of turning yellow, don't worry!

All the goodness from the roots goes into producing top growth and the lowest leaves are often ignored. If the higher leaves of your plants are turning yellow it is probably because they are struggling to absorb nitrogen.

In this case, a foliar feed with a balanced food like miracle grow will help. Deficiencies are often due to low temperatures are plants that have used up all the food in the pot they are in, in which case move to a bigger pot with more compost.

I usually remove yellow and poorly looking leaves from the bottom of tomato plants.

So Far ... So Good!

2009-05-12T21:26:00.004+01:00

I've gone to the effort this season to make sure that all of my outdoor plants are under cover with a lean-to placed here and there around the garden.

Last season was so disappointing because of blight, that I decided that if I were to continue to grow outdoors then It was necessary to keep the plants out of the rain. It only takes a few wet days and a few cold nights to spoil things.

Red Alert has shown just how good a variety it is, by producing the first tiny pea-sized fruit of this season. I sowed the Red Alert seed after Tumbling Tom back in February but it caught-up and over-took Tumbling Tom which I sowed two weeks earlier.

However, they are both fantastic varieties and earliness is not the only reason for choosing a which variety to grow.

There are a few mistakes that are very easy to make that can put all your hard work in jeopardy. I like to be positive and have a glass that is half full and not half empty, but the following are things I would try not to do.

Don't:

Give your plants too much water (many people kill their plants with kindness).

Feed your plants with tomato food until they begin to fruit.

Pour water over the leaves (tomato plant leaves like dry conditions).

Use compost and old soil from last season - it probably contains diseases and bugs.

Feel the leaves from plant to plant - you may be spreading diseases on your fingers.

For more tips about growing tomatoes please visit www.tomatogrowing.co.uk

I'm always happy to answer tomato related questions if I can.
Please email me here.

Tomato Root Space

2009-05-08T08:28:00.009+01:00

How much root space a tomato plant needs depends on the variety and the size of fruit it produces.

Bush Varieties

Tumbling Tom and Balconi Red are quite happy in a smaller area than Red Alert - all of which produce cherry tomatoes.

Oregon Spring, Siberian, Alaskan Fancy and New Yorker (these are medium and large fruited) will all require more root space than the cherry varieties or they will run out of energy before the tomatoes fully mature. They are also bigger plants.

So how much root space, or size of container should they be planted in?

There are two things to consider:

Size of Plant
Size of Fruit

Red Alert is a larger plant than Tumbling Tom even though the fruit are about the same size.

Larger plant = larger root system.

When dealing with plants that are about the same size but produce different size fruit, the larger fruiting variety requires more root space.

Larger Fruit = larger root area required to bring larger fruit to maturity.

Answer: A Tumbling Tom (small cherry plant) will be quite happy in a 5 Litre pot - around 9 inches diameter.

An Oregon Spring needs a 10 Litre container (at least) to perform to its full potential because both the plant and the tomatoes are large.

Tall Varieties (Also known as Cordon and Indeterminate).

The issue here is:

The size of fruit
The amount of trusses you intend to grow.

These plants are usually grown in grow bags so the question is - how many plants in a grow bag?

Answer: two medium or large size varieties, or, three medium to cherry size varieties in each grow bag. Most average size grow bags contain around 35 litres of soil/compost.

With regard to the amount of trusses ... you could grow two plants with six trusses each or three plants with four trusses each - you still end up with the same amount of trusses!
Usually it is four trusses outdoors and six trusses in the greenhouse.

Few! ... if you are still with me and haven't decided never to visit my blog again, well done!

How Much Room For Roots?

2009-05-07T15:34:00.005+01:00

As we get to the time of the season when we plant our well cared for plants into pots and containers - as well as grow bags of course - my temptation is to over-crowd with too many plants.

For example, I always sow more seeds than I should (just in case) and end up with far too many plants and not enough containers and compost to go in them. Faced with the dilemma - should I give my extras away or put two in a large pot instead of one!

Experience tells me to not over-crowd but I sure would like to keep them and plant them now!

Well, this season I'm trying to be good and give each plant the root room it should have for the best results.

What is the best amount of space or soil amount for each variety? I'll let you know in my next post coming soon!

The Wind - Support Your Bush Varieties Too!

2009-05-06T12:57:00.009+01:00

I'm not going to get caught-out this season like I did last year when almost all of my outdoor plants got tomato blight. So every plant will get some kind of cover from the rain as I've constructed Lean-to's and all sorts of protection around the garden.

The problem is, as soon as you have sheets of polythene and other plastic covering, the wind becomes an issue. Chasing covers into the next door neighbors garden is a bit embarrassing!

The other issue with windy conditions is the direct effect on your plants and the damage it can cause to the base of the main stems. Although bush varieties are often thought to grow without support, I usually stick a cane or two around each plant to help when it's windy and also when it is heavy with fruit.

Bush varieties like Red Alert are taller than Tumbling Tom for example and will need some support. Sometimes a branch will become so heavy with fruit that its weight will pull from the main stem so tying branches to some kind of support can be helpful.

However, do remember to be careful with the ends of canes ... eyes can be vulnerable so it's a good idea to make the tips easy to see.

Tomato Plants

2009-05-04T12:23:00.003+01:00

There's still time to grow tomatoes this season if you buy small plants from the garden center.

Look for those that have dark green, healthy looking leaves and stems that are not "leggy" - that is thinner and taller than they should be ... compare them to the other plants of the same shelf.

Of course you probably won't get the selection of varieties that are available from seed, but buying small tomato plants is a great way to get started at this time of the season.

Remember ... keep those leaves dry!

Grow Bags for Tomato Plants

2009-05-03T17:07:00.003+01:00

This post is about making the most of your grow bag or, "grow bag optimisation" to put it in a rather grand way!

Perhaps the biggest drawback with grow bags is that they can dry out quickly, especially when plants are fruiting. So here are a few suggestions to help keep the moisture in.

Make slits in the top of the grow bag and plant so that the plastic can be replaced around the bottom of the plant and the compost is not exposed and moisture is unable to evaporate.

Sink pots directly into the grow bag so that the plant roots can grow out of the bottom of the pot and into the grow bag (see above).

Add a few handfuls of perlite to the soil to aid water retention. Also, water retaining gel is a good option.

You will need to pierce drainage holes but make them at the ends of the bags rather than at the sides to help keep the entire compost area moist.

To help watering, sink a large pot in the middle which can be filled easily and the water can make its way out of the bottom of the pot (see pic. black pot between two Sungold plants).

Foliar Feeding Tomatoes

2009-05-02T18:41:00.004+01:00

The quickest way to get nutrients into a plant is to spray the leaves with a suitable plant food.

This may not necessarily be tomato feed as there are other nutrients that can help the development and growth of plants.

Seaweed extract is a great way to give your plants a boost - it's organic - and can be given by foliar spray or roots. It is particularly good when transplanting to bigger pots to stop plants from becoming stressed.

To help avoid blossom end rot in medium and larger varieties, a foliar spray can aid nutrient intake - calcium is crucial when plants are growing fruit - and give the tomatoes the food they need as fast as possible.

It is important to check the instructions on your plant food container to make sure that foliar feeding is possible - some feed is not suitable.

The best way to feed is little and often so that plants always have access to some food. My preferred method is to reduce the recommended amount by half and feed twice as often.

Removing Leaves

2009-05-01T07:51:00.002+01:00

It's a good idea to remove the leaves at the bottom of a tomato plant if they are looking poorly. Pull them off with an upward yank rather than cut them with a blade because scissors/blades can transfer infection from plant to plant.

It is common practice to remove leaves from tall varieties up to the first truss. It creates more air movement around the base of the plant and gives more energy to the upper part of the plant and tomato development.

Rain Again!

2009-04-27T21:09:00.004+01:00

Well ... I guess I shouldn't complain because we've had several days of sunny weather and one of my tomato plants, Red Alert, has just started to set fruit - the first flower has faded and a tiny pea-like tomato has appeared!

I did sow the seed for this plant in February so I guess it's not surprising for it to be at this stage, at this time of the season. However, not all tomato plants will set fruit in cool temperatures which is one reason why Red Alert is an early variety.

It's not just the amount of time it takes from seed to fruit, it's also the ability of a variety to "set" - that is, pollinate flowers to become fruit in cool temperatures - that makes a variety early.

Many larger varieties that originate in Italy for example, will not set fruit so early in the season because of temperature, humidity and length of day - all of which tomato "set" responds to.

Of course temperature and humidity can be controlled in high-tech greenhouses, and duration of day can be controlled by artificial light also.

So if you want an early tomato variety, the ability to set fruit in low temperatures is important. Red Alert and Glacier are two good examples.

By the way, do keep them out of the rain at this time of year if possible.

Tomato Plant Roots & Water

2009-04-26T08:32:00.004+01:00

Looking after seedlings and young tomato plants can be a tricky business.

Just how much water to give, especially if new to growing tomatoes, can be a difficult decision to make. The method is to keep the compost just moist so that it is neither wet or completely dry.

This is actually impossible as compost or soil drys-out rapidly on a hot day, and if you are away from the house your little plants could be dying of thirst in the hot sun.

The first thing to understand is that the more water you give your plants (over a period) the less roots they will grow. This is owing to the fact that roots need air as well as water and a consistently sodden soil will stunt root growth owing to lack of air.

That means if you over water your plants, when the time comes that they need a good root system to absorb water on a hot day, they may not be able to take up all that they need.

This a a pic of a variety called Glacier and it has a good root system with strong, thick white coloured roots.

When plants are in pots they should be stood in a tray of water for 5 or 10 minutes to thoroughly absorb water and soak the whole of the compost area.

It's best to not water again until the compost is almost dry to allow air back into the soil.

If the leaves start to wilt that will be a sign that you have left them a bit too long without water! For a quick recovery, spray them with a mist of water and water them from below again.

I realise that this can be time consuming if you have to keep your eye on the plants and try to judge how moist the compost is just below the surface!

However, the best start a plant can be given is a good root system and this will pay-off with a healthy life and a good harvest.

More about watering and feeding tomato plants here.

Weather - Good or Bad for Tomatoes

2009-04-23T21:59:00.003+01:00

Today, we've had some really good weather for growing tomatoes. Lots of hazy sunshine with a nice floating cloud or two for the odd bit of temporary shade.

I think the biggest threat to my plants at this time of year is damp wet air. I can keep them out of the rain but I can't control the humidity or condensation which can be almost as bad as rain, especially if they are slightly over-watered.

The only moisture that I like on tomato plant leaves is when spraying a mist of water to foliar feed or to revive a plant that has been in hot sunlight and has started to wilt.

It is a "given" that tomato plants hate wet leaves, that is leaves that are wet for more than a few hours, which may lead to fungal diseases such as damping-off (when seedlings shrivel and die) or tomato blight on older plants.

Fugal spores may also be found in compost that has been left in the rain outside a garden center from last season - try to make sure that the compost you buy is this year's supply.

More information about growing tomatoes may be found on the tomato growing tips page.

Tomatoes & Full Sunshine

2009-04-20T18:02:00.003+01:00

It is generally accepted that tomato plants require lots of direct sunlight in order to grow to their full potential. This is both true and untrue depending on the variety, growth habit and age.

A variety such as Tumbling Tom in full sunshine for most of the day will struggle to absorb enough water through its roots to replace the moisture evaporating through its many leaves when it is in hot, direct sunshine.

A variety such as Red Alert, which has less leaves, will need less water to supply to its leaves and therefore cope better in hot sunshine. It is also the case that a plant with a well developed root system will cope better in all conditions and produce a better crop.

Varieties that originate in Southern Europe, such as Italian and Spanish varieties, will do better in hot weather than those that come from cooler areas of the world.

I'm writing about this subject because, in the UK, we are in the middle of some very sunny and warm weather and some of my tomato plants are wilting in the hot sun!

When this happens I'll move them into the shade and give their leaves a spray misting with water ... twenty minutes later they'll look a lot happier.

It is also true about tomato plants that some varieties need to be acclimatised to direct sunlight. No ... this is not April the 1st ... it's just that tomato plants have huge divergences in growth habit and requirements which make growing tomatoes all the more interesting and rewarding.